zondag 10 oktober 2010

The end..

That's it. We made it back to Marrakech safely after 7 days of riding an 1600 KM !

Yesterday started with fast, hard packed gravel pistes towards the mountains. We then did a slow and quite long mountain track with lot's of turns, so progress was slow.

Around 11h we end on a large altitude plateau with nothing around except a few small houses with shops in it. Apparently this is the last reacheable place for trucks, so people come from the villages in the mountains to this place to buy, sell and trade goods.

The subsequent climb to 2200 m was a fast one despite the rocky pistes. The descent to 1200m in less then 9 km is quite a challenge, as the road is very rocky, very steep, and with lot's of hairpin turns.

After a quich lunch (tajine of course) we did 50 KM of tarmac, and then the last stretch of pistes before taking the main road to Marrakech.

In the afternoon we could see clouds gathering over the Marrakech valley, and indeed here in Marrakech the weather is not that good.

End of the blog for now. We are now going to enjoy the 3 days rest in Marrakech before going back to work...

Oops. Forgot to blog yesterday.

Yesterday was the longest day of the trip: 270 km in total.

After 20 km of Tarmac we went on pistes again along the coast. No more rocks but loose sand, which means you need to drive in a totally different way. Keeping up the speed is essential to avoid the front wheel bogging down. With weight balanced towards the back the front wheel is all over the place, swinging in all directions because of the sand. You just have to let it go and keep on the gas. Unnerving at best. I fell over once, but luckely in the sand so I didn't hurt myself.

We then headed back inland going northeast through farmlands. The area is more populated, and plenty of roads and pistes are possible.

Lunch was a tajine in a small farming town. The afternoon we took faster, hard packed pistes. Hit a problem when we discovered Alain's fuel tank is leaking near the saddle. We can only fill it half way, and have to stop more often to fuel up.

Somehow we misjudged the total distance a bit. The last 50 km on tarmac, with daylight fading, was a bit too much. Everbody has a soar butt !

Today we go up the mountain in the atlas to 2200 m altitude. Then this afternoon down to Marrakech...

Ps: no more pictures because the camera on mobile phone is broken...

vrijdag 8 oktober 2010

Pfff. Feel exhausted. Slept 11 hours but I still feel tired. My body feels like it has been hit by a freight train. I started chivering around 3 AM, as it's cooler here at night. Slept the rest of the night with my sweather on...

Hopefully breakfast will help. Going to Ouled Barhill to the same hotel we went 2 years ago. Today will be a mix of sandy pistes and Tarmac. As long as there are less stones and rocks it's fine. On rocky pistes your arms really take a beating, and it doesn't help for the blisters on your hands either...

donderdag 7 oktober 2010

The sea at last

After 4 days through the desert it feels strange to drive towards the sea. We left early this morning and spent the first 1,5 hours riding through the dunes towards the sea. You can feel the air getting more humid, the temperature going down, and the typical smell of the sea. You just can't see it yet. Full offroad here, not even tracks, ending on a steep sand slope down towards the beach.

We finally reached the return point of our trip. After heading for 4 days southwest, we are now heading north.

We had the early departure this morning to be on the beach before high tide. We cut it very thin, because after 24 km of crusing on the beach the water was already quite far and we just got off in time...

More rocky pistes, and after a long morning of 140 km we had lunch at Fort Abou Jarif, a beautiful french owned hotel/camping/restaurant. And what a lunch ! We ate so much that afterwards we almost fell asleep on the coaches.

This afternoon was short (luckely), doing a lot of Tarmac.

The hotel is fine, with nice, clean rooms with view on the sea.

We are all quite tired now. More then 1000km off-road is taking it's toll. Acking musles, sore arms and backs, blisters on hands and fingers, skin irritaion from the protective gear,...2 days to go till we get the necessary rest in Marrakech...2 more days of adventure...

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Eary rise this morning. We need to leave before 8 to go to the plage blanche, and be there before high tide.

Tajine last night was wonderfull

woensdag 6 oktober 2010

Day and night

Today is different from yesterday like day and night.

Leaving the hotel this morning didn't go without problems. Because of the bad service we refused to pay a (small) part of the bill. You can imagine the argument with the owner that followed. He even threatened to go to the gendarmerie.

In Assa they weren't too friendly either. We did 3 shops before having enough bottled water to fill the camelbags.

This morning I felt great. After the first 35km on Tarmac we were back on the pistes in a very remote area. Rocky at first, then full throttle on a dry lakebed.incredible fun, and desert as far as you can see.

We had lunch under a tree as usual, then more rocky tracks in the afternoon. We stopped at an old, abandoned fort of the french legion and had a walk inside.our guide Peter fell, but apart from a few dents in the bike and a soar knee, he is ok.

Our hotel tonight is fantastic. Ksar tafnidilt is built new next to another old fort, and looks just like it. Being on top of the hill the view from here is magnificent . I forgot to take pictures but will post tomorrow.

Had a hot shower, a drink on the terrace and as darkness settles we are ready for dinner.

View from my room

Congratulations !

Congratulations to hotel Nideros in Assa. It just got voted as the worst hotel I ever did.

Wanted to take a shower last night, but by the time I got soaped in, the water stopped. Not just the warm water, but the cold as well. Airco didn't work either, or so they say. Turned out the just want to save on the electric bill, so they don't give you the remote

We couln't get anything to drink at bar except beer . Not even a coke or water. Luckely our mechanic Abdoul went to town and bought some. BYO like in Australia.

Half the hotel is in darkness ( save on the bill remember ?).

The food started well with some soup, but the lamb tajine was awefull. Just like eating rubber. So ate a lot of bread instead.

Went to bed early, but not before hot-wiring the airco so I could have it running for half an hour to cool down the room.

There has been a storm wind raging outside all night.

Can't wait to get away from this place...

dinsdag 5 oktober 2010

Assa - in the middle of nowhere

Just got to Assa half an hour ago.

This morning was not that good. I payed the price for being dehydrated yesterday, and having those 3 beers before dinner. I just couldn't get in the rithm, got a few close calls, and started to freeze up which only made it worse. The piste was very rocky, with some stretches of tarmac. The rocks really test your fitness and especially the arms, which by the end of the morning hurt like hell. The fact that I was up at 5 AM didn't help.

The heat continues as well but it was not as bad as yesterday.

We had our picknick lunch near a beautiful oasis (see picture)

After lunch it went much better (also because we changed the settings on the front suspension ). Fast pistes like yesterday morning, going 80 km/h on some stretches.

We lost time at another checkpoint of the gendarmerie nationale. This time they were not friendly at all. Had a coke afterwards in a small town, then took the normal road to Assa , otherwise we would have been at the hotel after dark.

Assa really is the middle of nowhere. On a large plain, very windy, with nothing around. Some houses, and a 7 year old hotelthat is already run down. Guess not a lot of tourists make it this far south.

Time for shower. I will take a few extra pictures (of nowhere and ot it's surroundings) later today

Woke up at five with bloodshot eyes. I look like an alcoholic (please disregard any comments on this blog about this !)
We all suffer from it. The sand is so fine it just gets everywhere, including in your goggles. So after a day riding your eyes are sand blasted. Will use another pair of goggles today: better sealed and with a tinted glass.

I did suffer a bit from dehydration yesterday. Have to be carefull and drink more. I.finshed 3 camelbags + drinks at every break and it is still not enough. The heat and the wind ( there is a lot of wind here) just dries you up so quickly.

Anyway, up to Assa today. We remain closer to paved roads so if we are too tired we can take the easy way to the hotel...

maandag 4 oktober 2010

Sorry. Last post got sent too early.

The hotel is the most luxureous in Tata, but pretty rundown by our standards. I guess that explains rooms are only 18 euro a night.

Tomorrow more of the same pistes towards Assa, which is even smaller then Tata. And we have been warned the
Hotel is the worst of the trip. Probably no cell phone there

Have to go to dinner...check the blog tomorrow
for more ...

Comme des betes !

Like my friend Michel would say, we went 'comme des betes !'
210 km, 4 hours driving, 3 hours of stops and lunch, 6 military checkpoints, 8 liters of water and 38 dg at noon with no shade the whole day. That about sums it up.
I tought I had seen the desert, but this is something else. Flat hard surface,with pistes as large as Belgium makes for amazing driving. Up to 100km/h on some parts, and you can drive where you want because it is hardpacked sand. Except the occasional bump can send you flying if you are not carefull. 'Tony, fait pas le con...'. The route we took is the old Paris-Dakar track, and considering our achievement we should enter the race...yeah right, keep on dreaming...
We did have to turn back at one point, because miliary stopped us from going too close to the Algerian border. We passed 6 military checkpoints. Each time they come running after you, but are very friendly and we had no problems passing.
We all went hard this morning, and having a picknick lunch under a tree in the middle of the desert in this heat is not the most relaxing. So this afternoon we started suffering from soar muscles. For Alain it's legs and right wrist from playing too much with the trottle. For me it's the arms and suffering from the heat.
We got to the hotel at 16h, so plenty of time for a shower, a beer and a dip in the pool. The hotelis the most luxureous in Tata, but pretty run do
Made it to Tata. More news later. First need a coke, a shower and the pool ! Hotel le relais des sables is where we are staying. Everybody is fine.

Day 2

Everbody was tired yesterday. Alain even fell asleep before dinner. Finished dinner at 20h30 and in bed by nine. Slept well till 6h30. The town of Foum Zguid is between the mountains, and sunrise this morning was breathtaking. The picture doesn't do the scenary justice.

Today we are heading into the desert for the next 3 days, close to the Algierian border. A few checkpoints are expected. We have more km to do today, but it's flat an less technical.

Physically we are OK. Nothing hurts (at least not too much), but we feel the effort made yesterday. And with 6 more days fatigue will pile up and becomes a risk: you loose concentration.

No phones or Email there so the blog will probably not be updated.

zondag 3 oktober 2010

Finally ay the hotel. This afternoon was the opposite of this morning. 110 km in total, with first twisting flat pistes. Then up the mountain on a rarely used track full of rocks. And to finish it off, another 30k on fast flat pistes. Arms were getting tired, as the afternoon trail in the mountains is very rocky so the bike shakes all over the place.

Apart from the guide's bike leaking oil, we had no incidents or accidents today. The scenary in the mountains was breathtaking !

Early dinner tonight then off to bed because we are all quite tired. Tomorrow is more km but no more mountain trails till saterday...

And we are off !

Left this morning around 10h30. Smooth piste with gravel and dirt. Did a little bit of real off-road in the hills. Big fun. Ideal start of the tour. Still very hot, 30+ dg. Now in a small town having tajine for lunch...up the mountain this afternoon...

Rise and shine

Went to bed early last night, and up early this morning. Our guide Peter gave us a briefing last night, and we met Taylor, who came all the way from New York to be on this tour. The fun thing is our hotel is full of bikers: a couple on a KTM Adventure, a lonely German on a similar bike, a group of Spanish and Brits on BMWs and 5 french guys on quads. Guess who was the noisiest in the restaurant last night ?

Anyway, apart from the call to prayer at 5 am I had a good night sleep.

Today we are heading for Foum Zguid. In the morning a fast gravel piste and a short ride to lunch. In the afternoon we go up the anti-atlas to 2000m on twisting mountain pistes, then back down to Foum Zguid at 800m. We can see the mountains from our room, so for a first day we do have some apprehension for the technical stuff this afternoon.
Today is the last day we have lunch in a restaurant. For the next 4 days it will be picknick lunches, because the area is so remote there are no towns or villages..

Going for breakfast now. Will try to post during the day but not sure I will get a signal...

zaterdag 2 oktober 2010

In Ouarzazate

Drove from Marrakech to Ouarzazate over the Tishka pass this morning. Beautiful scenery but a zillion turns. Not for those who get car sick easily. We dropped off our gear at the motorbike shop and check-in the hotel. Going out for lunch...
Marrakech is GMT, so 2 hours behind on Belgium. We were going to sleep late, but in the end we were up at 6h30. Ready to head for Ouarzazate after a good breakfeast.

Today will be cooler: 36 dg instead 38 dg....yeah, right...

In the pool...

We arrived at the hotel in Marrakech and are heading for the pool. Flight was fine. And at the airport passport controls went very fast for once...our rental car is a demonstration of the local driving style: 6 months old and not one panel is undamaged...hilarious...one big problem: it's 38 dg here at 17h in the afternoon. With that weather in the desert. We are going to suffer. Hydrate is the word. So we are heading for the bar to build some reserves..:-)

vrijdag 1 oktober 2010

Passed the check-in without problems. No cue at the check-in, at all! Never had that before...
Finally got the luggag ready. Leaving for the airport in an hour